In June 2011, I was privileged to participate in an exclusive photo safari led by Frans Lanting and Christine Eckstrom. The intention of the trip was not just to experience the nature and culture of Kenya and Rwanda, but to learn about current issues threatening the wildlife and environment, and efforts to mitigate them.

In Nairobi we stayed at Giraffe Manor, an amazing property where giraffes and warthogs roam free and come to visit you at the breakfast table. I also was able to visit Biotech Forensics, the only private forensic laboratory in East Africa.

We traveled by bush plane to our first stop in Kenya, Elephant Watch Camp, situated in the Samburu region. This exotic and colorful tent camp, located on the banks of the Ewaso Ngiro River, is run by Oria Douglas-Hamilton. The furniture is made of recycled wood from trees knocked down by the elephants, and showers are taken outdoors from painted buckets filled with solar-heated water. Oria’s husband, Dr. Iain Douglas-Hamilton runs Save The Elephants, a research and conservation organization that focuses on African elephants that remain threatened by the ivory trade. A current article in Vanity Fair, The Agony and the Ivory, explores the insidious and still wide-spread practice of ivory poaching and trading. The Kenyan government recently took a strong and public stand against the ivory trade by burning over 300 confiscated tusks and processed ivory. You can donate to Save The Elephants through the Wildlife Conservation Network.

Another bush plane took us to Lewa House, located inside the Ngare Sergoi Rhino Sanctuary. This sanctuary exists as a result of the efforts of David and Delia Craig, who transformed their cattle ranch into a reserve for the black rhinoceros population of Kenya. The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy works closely with local communities to involve them in wildlife conservation efforts while simultaneously supporting economic growth, infrastructure, education and healthcare. Through this groundbreaking model program, the protection and conservation of wildlife generates a source of income sufficient to supplant poaching and selling of rhino horn by the local population. The Conservancy suggests that the best way to support the project is to travel to the property and stay at one of their five spectacular lodges. You can also donate directly to the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. A rhino sponsorship program is currently under development.

Our last stop in Kenya, again traveling by bush plane, was Serian Camp in the Masai Mara. The Mara is an extension of the Serengeti Plains located across the border in Tanzania. This spectacular tented bush camp is located on the banks of the Mara River. Bats roost in the private outdoor showers and the hippos that inhabit the river provide a continuous sound track. Serian is the research base for the Mara Predator Project, Living With Lions. Far fewer lions exist in Africa than previously believed, and the population continues to be hunted and killed at an alarming rate. Living with Lions is a research and conservation group that supports projects in unprotected areas of Kenya to save the remaining wild lions and other predators outside National Parks. The Serian Trust is a non-profit organization that provides charitable support in conservation, education and humanitarian assistance to local communities. Their conservation efforts are channeled through the Mara North Conservancy. We also had the opportunity to meet and spend time with Jonathan Scott, a well-known wildlife photographer, conservationist, and gentleman. Jonathan hosts the BBC’s popular Big Cat Diary. Several of Jonathon’s favorite conservation organizations, along with many stunning photos, are listed on his web site. One of the highlights of our visit to the Mara was a sighting of “Supermom,” a cheetah who was raising six cubs, a very unusual accomplishment as many cheetah cubs perish at, or soon after, birth. We arrived just in time to see the group demolish a Thompson's gazelle that Supermom had just killed. Finally, we took a breath-taking balloon ride over the African plains at dawn.

After returning briefly to Giraffe manor to repack and leave extra baggage, we flew via commercial flight to neighboring Rwanda to visit the Mountain Gorillas who live in Volcanoes National Park. These are the well-known “Gorillas in the Mist,” made famous by the infamous Dian Fossey. From the airport in Kigali, we drove several hours through lush green terraced hillsides up the mountain to our base at Mountain Gorilla View Lodge. On each of our two days there, we hiked a couple of hours through bamboo rainforest to see two different groups of gorillas that had been tracked by our Rwandan guides. On each day, we were allowed one hour contact with the gorillas, their payment for living in relative peace, freedom, and safety from poachers. The Rwandan government has wisely harnessed the goodwill of local communities by plowing revenue from gorilla tourism directly back into the education, health care, and economic support of these people. As such, they have managed to almost completely negate poaching of the gorillas within the region under their control. We had the opportunity to meet and chat with Prosper Uwingeli, the Chief Park Warden of Volcanoes National Park.  On the second day led by François Bigirimana, who got his start working as a porter for the late Dian Fossey, we were treated to a viewing of a Kabatwa and her 5 month old twins, a very rare occurrence. Gorilla tourism is the main source of income for post-Genocide Rwanda, and is managed by the Rwanda Office of Tourism and National Parks.

On our last morning in Rwanda, before heading back to Nairobi and flights home, we visited the market, and were able to purchase some of the ubiquitous bright fabricss that Rwandan women favor.  Finally we toured the Kigali Memorial Centre that documents the Rwandan Genocide in which over 250,000 victims perished.